- Cost: $200, before drinks, tax, tip
- Size: 8 seats
- Style: New-style sushi
- Reserved: no reservation
Like a lot of LA-area sushiya, Go's Mart is located in nondescript strip mall in an unassuming part of the valley. The place doesn't take reservations, which isn't really an issue because it often looks like it's closed (the owner supposedly refuses to turn on the neon sign at night for fear of attracting anybody). I've been told the counter is never full.
A sushi counter is located towards the back of what looks like a former video rental place (there are a few *interesting* manga titles on offer, if that's your speed) and a convenience store.
So, to erase any doubts, this isn't a "traditional" sushi omakase by any stretch. But behind the eyeroll-inducing amount of gold leaf and truffle oil adorning some nigiri (not to mention the "specials" board with offerings like the "stupid roll"), Go's offers an array of madcap items that evoke some of the most traditional sushi flavors while still maintaining a sense of silliness.
A few examples: a plate of tuna nigiri featured a gunkan of kawagishi toro, an incredibly labor-intensive collection of fatty scrapings from the inside of the skin, and the sort of thing that might only be found at a tuna-focused sushiya in Tokyo. A tasting of kimo was served with a baby daikon dusted with sansho pepper. A scallop nigiri was accompanied by it's own adductor muscle.
My omakase at Go's, despite some of the unconventional seasoning choices, followed a somewhat traditional progression, and the neta is top-notch. But there is no doubt that precision is not the name of the game here, and the shari is not very distinctive and tends to take a back seat the relatively large cuts of fish.
For the cost, Go's is one of the more expensive options in the LA area, especially given the location. I wonder if this reflects Go's greater variety of rare items (like the tuna heart, or shrimp roe) than many other sushiya. To be sure, Go's is not for a traditionalist or one seeking a zen-like platonic ideal of sushi, but it is a definitely a unique and enjoyable experience in the world of American sushiya.
22330 Sherman Way C12, Canoga Park